It might be known as ‘Sin City’, but that description scarcely scratches the surface of what this enigma in the midst of the Nevada desert is actually all about.

Visitors may be assailed from all sides by gaming tables and fruits machines — literally as they wait at baggage reclaim, in petrol stations, cafes and on a huge scale in virtually every major hotel — but it’s perfectly feasible to visit Vegas and never spend a penny gambling.

Never mind the unrivalled shows, the limitless range of top eateries, including 10 Michelin star restaurants or the plethora of over-the-top five star hotels, there’s the culture.

Culture in Las Vegas? I hear you ask.

When I ventured to mention to both the mayor of Vegas Carolyn Goodman and the previous incumbent, her husband Oscar, that my wife felt that the city had no culture, the reaction was apoplectic. Suffice to say that the rebuttal was emphatic.

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